L’Atic, Palma

If one of your criteria for a place to eat out is a great view, L’Atic in Palma should be on your restaurant radar. L’Atic is on the seventh floor of the Hotel Saratoga – the home of the former Blue Jazz Club – but more than impressive views await you.

Since opening at the beginning of the year, L’Atic has been garnering great reviews for its 8-plate tasting dinner menu (62€), which must be booked in advance.

L’Atic’s Mallorca-born head chef Juan Pinel did his culinary studies in Madrid, before working in two restaurants there. Back in Mallorca, his CV includes the Michelin-starred Zaranda (then in Es Capdellà), the former Baiben, and St Regis Mardavall Mallorca hotel. Before L’Atic, he was head chef of a restaurant in St Tropez.

Juan and his culinary team work in a gleaming open kitchen with possibly the best views from any restaurant kitchen in the city. Paying homage to local produce, Juan adds his signature touches, influenced by his experience in high-end restaurants.

The elegant, contemporary L’Atic is spacious and filled with natural light from picture windows offering views across the harbour and across to Castell de Bellver. A large screen shows a rolling display of images of Mallorca lighthouses (fascinating), and there’s a grand piano too.

At lunchtime, L’Atic offers a 6-plate Menú Ejecutivo (38€ including water and coffee). Not hungry enough for this, we had an à la carte lunch, beginning with one of the ‘Bites’: tempura hake with sea lettuce foam and seaweed powder. (8€). I’d happily have eaten a full-sized portion of this.

Each dish’s main ingredients are highlighted on the menu. Mine was described as Squid/Ink/Pork (26,90€), which translated to perfectly cooked Robata-grilled line-caught squid with ink sauce and pig’s trotters with panipuri – the latter, a light, popular Indian street food snack. Never having tried pig’s trotters before, even though I know they’re rich in healthy collagen, I chose this dish. The flavours on the plate were delicious but the gelatinous texture of trotter meat wasn’t to my liking. A matter of personal taste.

My companion’s dish of Cheek/Celery/Mushrooms was a big hit (24€). A generous piece of succulent beef cheek with mushrooms and local pickled veg on a bed of celery cream.

From the three sweets and an assortment of world cheeses, we chose Chocolate/Hazelnut/Meringue (7,90€) and Mahon Cheesecake/Pistachio/EVOO – Extra Virgin Olive Oil – from Mallorca, of course. (6,50€). This silky confection is my recommended dessert.

We drank wine by the glass, choosing a rosé natural wine at 7€.

I was impressed by the high level of professional service from the restaurant manager, Joan, and his team. Combined with Juan Pinel’s signature cuisine, the ambience, and the views, L’Atic is a welcome addition to Palma’s fine dining options.

On the 8th floor of the hotel – just above L’Atic – you’ll find the Sky Bar, where you can enjoy a pre- or post-prandial drink with a 360-degree view of Palma.

Photos: Jan Edwards

Prices correct at time of writing.