Bartomeu, Sa Coma

You may think it unlikely that you’d find a high-quality lunch for 22€ from a Mallorcan chef whose restaurant held a Michelin star for 14 years, but that’s what’s on offer at Bartomeu de Tomeu Caldentey in Sa Coma.

It’s important to mention that Tomeu Caldentey – who now styles himself as a ‘cuiner’ or cook – gave back the Michelin star awarded to his fine-dining restaurant, Bou. In 2018, the chef changed the concept of his restaurant to something more affordable and opened the new Tomeu Caldentey Cuiner on the same premises, offering a choice of tasting menus.

A couple of years later, Tomeu opened Bartomeu, in a different area of the same restaurant, offering a great-value lunch from Wednesdays to Sundays.

The Bartomeu dining room is filled with natural light, which feels even more uplifting on a sunny day in the autumn. This space accommodates around 30 diners in a relaxed ambience. When we’ve visited, it’s usually been full.

The ‘Migdia’ Bartomeu menu changes weekly and is publicised on social media. Lunch is in two sittings: 13:30h and 14:30h. We arrived at 13.30h and left sometime after 15:00h.

The ‘Migdia’ menu offers five plates and Tomeu’s moreish olive oil bread with spiced mayonnaise. On weekdays, the price of 22€ includes a half litre of water per person (water costs extra on Saturdays, Sundays, and weekday public holidays). Other drinks are at an extra cost and are self-service. Help yourself from the wide choice and tell Tomeu what you had when it’s time to pay. A glass of wine or cava – poured yourself – costs 4€, and bottle prices seem reasonable. Beers and soft drinks cost 2,50€. Little wonder that Bartomeu is popular.

Our lunch began with the ‘croquetas’ of the week, which were of cheese and sobrasada. Next was a carpaccio of thinly sliced Portobello mushrooms with a turmeric sauce. Tomeu is renowned for his cannelloni – there’s usually one on his Tomeu Caldentey Cuiner tasting menus; we had a three-meat-stuffed cannelloni au gratin with Menorcan cheese, brought in a piping-hot dish to share. Delicious. Perfectly cooked cod in a sauce with potatoes (‘suquet’) was our final savoury dish, served in warmed bowls.

Dessert was described on the English menu as ‘Musician’s cake in our style’. It was more a tempting pastry than a cake, with layers of flaky pastry, apricots, toasted slivered almonds, and crème patissiere. I’ve eaten Tomeu’s food many times over the years and he’s a master of flavourful dishes whatever he cooks.

Instead of the starched chef’s jackets of Michelin days, Tomeu and his small kitchen team all wear black T-shirts, jeans, and aprons. As well as cooking the food, Tomeu and his team also serve the food. Bartomeu in Sa Coma is informal, offers tasty food, and is great value. Book in advance to be sure of a table.

Bartomeu will be closed for the last week of November and for the month of January.

Photos: Jan Edwards

Prices were correct at time of writing