GAIKAN by FUSION19, Playa de Muro

I’ve long been a fan of chef Javier Hoebeeck, who leads the culinary team at Fusion19 – the one-Michelin-starred restaurant in the popular resort of Playa de Muro.

Mallorca-born Javier has travelled extensively in the pursuit of culinary knowledge and experience. Celler de Can Roca and Azurmendi on the Peninsular among the restaurants on his CV. He’s cooked in Tokyo, Germany, and London too.

Fusion19 is sadly beyond my budget, but Gaikan Restaurant and Sushi Bar is a more affordable place to enjoy Javier’s creative food – which combines Oriental and Mediterranean cuisine with some Latin American influences.

On a hot evening, we were relieved to find the smart, covered terrace restaurant blessed with efficient fans, making dining here a comfortable experience. A low-level stand at each table was for handbags – a thoughtful addition. Maître Marcos Puertollano led the friendly and professional service team.

Gaikan is in front of Fusion 19, and both are on a higher gastronomic level than the many other local eateries. That’s good to know for foodies holidaying in the area.

Gaikan offers an à la carte menu, but we were immediately drawn to the temptations of the tasting menu of three appetizers, two starters, two mains, and a dessert for 65€.

We began with a cocktail each: a Hugo (9,95€) and an Aperol Spritz (10,50€). Gaikan also has a lounge area (with a DJ) for pre-meal drinks, but we drank ours at the table.

The tasty, home-made sourdough bread is served with smoked butter and Mallorcan extra virgin olive oil. Three appetizers arrived: a Thai prawn croquette with tempered prawn; salmon tartar panipuri with creamy, dried apricots, and sashimi of queen scallop with Nikkei pickle and kumquat. All were superb and a promising start to dinner.

Before we continued, we tried the ensaïmada from the à la carte menu, served in a ceramic version of the traditional box for this pastry. It’s the Gaikan version of a dish on the Fusion19 menu – and a delicious surprise.

Our starters were a nigiri and a ceviche – both made with the amberjack-related hamachi fish. Mains were grilled sea bass with aubergine mutabal, and fennel salad with pickled lemon and miso Béarnaise, followed by grilled lamb cutlet with ras el hanout, port sauce, parsnip purée and pickled carrot. The dessert of coconut and mint marshmallow, crunchy chocolate with toasted coconut and mango ice cream ended Gaikan’s exciting tasting menu.

We drank a glass of Izadi Larrosa rosé wine (7,95€) and a bottle of sparkling water (5,25€). Gaikan also offers a choice of liqueur coffees which we’ll try next time.

While scores of holidaymakers passed by outside, inside Gaikan we were on an international journey. A gastronomic one, created by the well-travelled Javier Hoebeeck.

Note: the tasting Menu at Gaikan has changed for August.

Photos: Jan Edwards

Prices correct at time of writing.