Mamacona Cocina Peruana, Manacor
Paddington Bear isn’t the only notable – albeit fictional – export from Peru. The South American country’s gastronomy has fans around the world, for its flavours, textures, and some exotic native produce.
In mid-February, Manacor became home to the town’s first restaurant offering authentic Peruvian dishes. Having known the Manacor gastro scene for twenty years, I was excited to try Mamacona.
It’s only steps away from Manacor’s impressive church and has terrace tables at the front and an appealing indoor dining space, accommodating around 80 diners in total. A few different eateries and bars have previously occupied the premises, but Mamacona is the best of them in every way.
Executive chef Erik Henriod is one of three friends who have come together to create Mamacona – which takes its name from the women who were dedicated to religious service in the Inca empire. In Quechua, Mamacona means ‘sacred mother’.
Erik is of Peruvian and German origin. He worked in Düsseldorf’s Michelin-starred Le Flair restaurant for two years, giving him a focus on details and service. It augurs well.
Mamacona’s menu includes Peruvian classics – causas, anticuchos, chicharrón, ceviches, and tiraditos – and some tempting main course dishes.
We started our lunch by sharing a Tiradito Kunsei (23€): salmon and tuna tataki in a ponzu, yuzu and aji amarillo reduction. Kunsei means ‘smoking’ and this dish arrived at the table covered with a glass dome which, when removed, released a tantalizing smoky aroma. A touch of theatre.
Next, I ate a classic of Peruvian cuisine, lomo saltado (23€) – a flavourful and satisfying dish of diced beef sautéed over intense fire. My companion chose spaghetti Huancaína (22€) – also based on beef.
Our charming server offered a choice of two home-made desserts (each 10€). A carob brownie served on a purée of the Peruvian fruit, lúcuma, or the ‘tres leches’ chocolate cake infused with a touch of Bailey’s and sake. We shared one of each.
The wine list is quite short but does include some wines from Peru. We each had a glass of Dominio de Unx Rosé (4€) from Bodega San Martín in Navarra. Peruvian beers and cocktails are also among the drinks offered at Mamacona.
After we’d paid our lunch bill, I had a chat with Erik, who is charming. He and his partners have more plans for Mamacona – including a signature cocktail list, more wines, and Peruvian tapas.
As Peru sadly isn’t in my foreseeable travel plans, Mamacona Cocina Peruana in Manacor will be my destination when I want to enjoy that fascinating country’s gastronomy.
Photos: Jan Edwards
Prices correct at time of writing.