Tomeu Caldentey Cuiner, Sa Coma
The resort of Sa Coma on Mallorca’s east coast appears almost deserted after the holiday season has ended, and the shutters are down at most businesses for the winter. But on Sunday lunchtime, we were in a line of several cars pulling into the free car park across the road from Tomeu Caldentey Cuiner.
I wasn’t surprised to see plenty of diners already seated when chef/owner Tomeu greeted us as we entered. I’d tried to secure a reservation a few times before I was successful.
The restaurant itself is modern, light, and decorated with contemporary art. But our eyes were fixed on what was happening in the large, well-equipped kitchen where this Mallorcan chef used to lead a brigade of chefs creating Michelin-starred cuisine at his former restaurant Bou. The prime seats are comfortable, high chairs at the two counters, and offer a ringside view of the culinary action. We sat alongside two other local couples at one counter. A few diners sat at conventional tables.
Tomeu handed back the Michelin star in 2018 and launched this restaurant offering his new concept of more affordable and informal dining in 2018. He and his small team wear branded T-shirts and aprons, rather than chef’s whites, adding to the relaxed ambience of this foodie experience. I even heard Tomeu singing softly to himself as he moved around the kitchen – a man happy in his work.
Of the three tasting menus – Caldentey (5 plates), Soler (8 plates), and Tomeu (10 plates) –. we’d booked the Soler menu at 49€, noting that the prices hadn’t changed since 2020. Drinks aren’t included and Tomeu’s moreish olive oil bread and spicy spread add 2,50€ per person to the bill – worth every ‘céntimo’ though. There’s no printed menu so every plate is a surprise.
Our first was sea bass with shimeji mushrooms in a curcumin sauce – vibrant in both flavour and appearance. This was followed by perfectly cooked cod with gratinated mushrooms, wasabi, and garlic aioli. This dish looked so tempting, I’d almost finished eating it when I realised I hadn’t taken a photograph.
The seafood theme continued with the third plate: an umami-rich cream of mushrooms with prawns and white miso. Baked apple was at the heart of the next dish, which also had a touch of curry, small pieces of sobrasada, and a foam of apple juice. Then we were back to fish – an unusual but tasty combination of corvina served with red pepper and cacao with a kimchi and orange sauce.
Our final savoury plate was Tomeu’s signature Cannelloni 2001 filled with pork and duck and accompanied by a mushroom sauce. Two desserts followed – the first of which was the perfect bridge between savoury and sweet.
Tomeu Caldentey Cuiner ticks lots of boxes for me: crockery straight from the warming cabinet, a relaxed vibe, a bit of theatre, friendly team, and food full of flavour.
Photos: Jan Edwards
Prices correct at time of writing.